Artificial grass installation depends on three hidden layers: the infill that holds the fibres upright, the base that keeps water moving away from your yard, and the underlay that protects the backing from the ground. This guide walks through each one, explains why each matters in the Salt Lake Valley's dry climate and freeze-thaw winters, and shows you what to ask for in writing before work begins. Whether you are converting a dead lawn, building a dog run, or preparing a patio, understanding what goes under the turf will help you spot the difference between a real installation and a shortcut.
Salt Lake City sits on old Lake Bonneville clay flats and rocky benches where the soil drains poorly and caliche (a hard, cemented layer) often lies close to the surface. Winter snow and spring melt test every base, and summer heat can expose weak drainage in a hurry. This guide is for homeowners in Salt Lake City and the surrounding areas who want to know what a proper installation looks like, what questions to ask, and why the work underneath the turf matters as much as the turf itself.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material that sits on top of the turf backing, between and around the synthetic fibres. It serves four purposes: it holds the fibres upright so they do not mat down, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight to keep the turf from shifting in wind or under foot traffic, and it helps water drain through the system. The most common infill is silica sand, a fine, angular mineral that is inexpensive and effective. Silica is the baseline for most residential installations, though it can feel slightly coarse underfoot and does not add colour to the turf appearance.
Coated sand (also called coloured or rounded sand) is silica that has been tumbled and treated to round the edges and add colour. Coated sand feels softer underfoot, blends visually with the turf, and is often preferred for residential yards and pet areas where comfort matters. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odours, making it popular for dog runs and pet turf where urine can otherwise accumulate. Zeolite is often blended with sand rather than used alone. Coated cooling infills such as Envirofill use minerals or polymers designed to reflect heat and reduce surface temperature; these are useful in full sun but cost more than standard sand. Crumb rubber (shredded tire) is a sports-field infill that offers impact absorption for high-traffic athletic surfaces and is not typically used in residential yards. Your turf product and intended use determine which infill makes sense; your installer should specify it in writing and explain why it suits your yard.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, a measurement that tells you how much material is needed to properly support and protect your turf. A typical residential turf might call for 1.5 to 2.5 pounds per square foot, while a pet area or a high-traffic zone may need 2 to 3 pounds per square foot or more. The exact amount depends on the turf product (its pile height, face weight, and backing construction), the climate, and the use case. Too little infill is a common shortcut in cheap installations: the fibres do not stand up properly, the backing gets exposed to UV and degrades faster, and the turf can shift or bunch underfoot. Proper infill depth also improves drainage performance and helps control odour in pet areas.
You should always ask your installer for the infill amount in writing, measured in pounds per square foot, before work begins. This figure should appear on your written specification alongside the turf product name, the base depth, and the compaction method. If an installer cannot or will not provide an infill weight in writing, that is a red flag. Some installers measure infill by depth (inches), but weight per square foot is the industry standard and the only reliable way to verify that the job was done correctly. Ask for it, get it in writing, and keep that specification for your records.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under artificial grass work together to manage water, prevent weeds, and keep the turf stable. The process begins by removing the existing lawn or old turf, including roots and thatch, which would otherwise trap moisture and cause rot or odour. Next comes excavation and grading: the ground is dug out to accommodate the base material and is sloped away from your house and pool so water runs off rather than pooling. A weed barrier (landscape fabric) is laid to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf; this is especially important in yards with a history of weeds. Then comes the free-draining base of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, typically three to four inches, which is spread and compacted in layers (called lifts) to create a firm, stable platform.
On top of the base, many installations include an optional draining underlay or pad, a thin layer of permeable material that adds cushioning for pets or play areas, provides extra drainage insurance, and can protect the turf backing from sharp stones. For hard surfaces such as concrete patios, balconies, or rooftop decks, an underlay or pad is essential because concrete holds water and the turf cannot drain through it. In these cases, edge drainage (a perimeter channel or lip) must also be installed so water runs off the edge rather than pooling under the turf. Never glue turf flat to a concrete slab without an underlay and edge drainage, as water will trap underneath, the backing will rot, and odour will develop. Once the base and any underlay are in place, the turf is laid, seamed, and secured. Each layer has a purpose, and skipping any of them is a shortcut that will fail within a season or two.
Base Prep on Salt Lake City Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Salt Lake City soil presents a particular challenge: the Valley floor is built on old Lake Bonneville clay flats and caliche (a hard, cemented layer of calcium carbonate and soil) that drains very poorly. Rain and snowmelt sit on this ground rather than percolating through it, and without proper base preparation, artificial turf can develop standing water, puddles, soft spots, and odour problems. Proper base prep begins with excavation to remove the top layer of existing lawn and clay, typically four to six inches deep depending on the site. The ground is then graded with a slope (usually a gentle fall of 1 to 2 percent) away from your house, patio, or pool so water runs to the yard perimeter or a drainage area rather than toward the foundation.
Once graded, the excavated area is filled with decomposed granite or crushed base rock (often called crushed limestone, recycled asphalt, or road base), spread in layers of one to two inches and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. This process is repeated until you have three to four inches of compacted base material. Compaction is critical: an uncompacted base will settle unevenly, creating dips and soft spots where water pools and odour builds. The compacted base acts as a capillary break and a drainage layer, allowing water to move laterally and downward rather than sitting under the turf. If your yard has a chronic water problem (poor drainage, standing water after rain, or a high water table), the drainage issue must be addressed before or during base prep. If the site cannot be properly drained or graded, we will recommend alternative solutions or decline the job rather than install turf over a water problem.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf drainage is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF), a rating that tells you how fast water passes through the turf backing and infill. Most residential turf products drain at 4 to 8 GPH/SF, meaning they shed water quickly under normal conditions. However, a fast-draining turf still fails if the base underneath does not drain. This is why base prep and compaction matter so much: the turf is only as good as the platform it sits on. Perforated backing (turf with small holes in the underside) drains faster than solid backing, but all backing types are designed to let water through. The real test is what happens during a heavy rain or after snowmelt: if water pools on top of the turf or sits underneath it, either the turf drainage is insufficient or the base is not draining properly.
Pet areas and play zones demand extra drainage attention because urine and organic debris can accumulate if water does not move through quickly. In these cases, a draining underlay or pad (a thin, permeable layer between the base and the turf) adds a safety margin and improves odour control. On hard surfaces such as concrete, patios, or balconies, an underlay is mandatory because concrete does not drain; without it, water pools under the turf and the backing rots. Your installer should specify the turf's drainage rate in writing and should inspect your base and slope during the site visit. If drainage is questionable, ask about an underlay or about improving the base grading. A properly drained installation will shed water visibly within minutes of rain and will not smell, even in a pet area with heavy use.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a careful installation from a shortcut. Seams (the joints where two pieces of turf meet) are joined using seam tape and adhesive, with the pile grain aligned so the seam is nearly invisible when viewed from above. Seam tape is a sticky mesh that is laid under the overlapping turf edges, and a urethane or polyurethane adhesive bonds the backing together. A visible seam, especially one that stands proud or shows a gap, signals that the work was rushed or done in cold weather when adhesive does not cure properly. Nails or staples secure the perimeter and hold the turf in place during and after installation; they are spaced at intervals (typically 6 to 12 inches) and driven flush so they do not catch a foot or catch the eye. Edging is finished with bender board (a flexible metal or plastic strip), landscape timbers, or a secured perimeter that prevents the turf from lifting or fraying at the edges. Turf is cut tight to pavers, pool decks, and cool decks so water drains cleanly and no gaps collect debris.
After installation, the turf is power broomed, a process that uses a mechanical broom to stand the fibres upright and spread the infill evenly across the surface. This step is essential: it makes the turf look fuller and more natural, ensures infill is distributed uniformly, and helps the turf settle into its final appearance. A turf that has not been power broomed will look matted and uneven for weeks. When you inspect a finished installation, look for tight, invisible seams, secure edges that do not lift, infill spread evenly across the surface, and fibres standing upright. A lifted seam or edge, visible gaps, or bare backing showing through are signs of poor workmanship and should be addressed before you accept the job.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should have a written specification that details every material and method your installer will use. This spec protects you by creating a clear record of what was promised and what should be delivered. Your spec should include the following: turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon); face weight (the weight of fibre per square yard, typically 45 to 70 ounces); pile height (the length of the fibres, usually 1.5 to 2.5 inches for residential); backing type and drainage rate (in gallons per hour per square foot); infill type and amount (in pounds per square foot); base depth and material (e.g., 3.5 inches of compacted crushed base rock); compaction method (plate compactor, in lifts); weed barrier (yes or no, and type if included); seam method (tape and adhesive); edging type (bender board, timber, etc.); cleanup and haul-off (old turf and debris removed); and workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation only, not on the turf product itself).
A written spec is your proof that the job was done to standard. It also allows you to compare quotes fairly across installers and to hold your installer accountable if work does not meet the specification. When you get a free estimate, ask for a detailed spec in writing. If an installer cannot or will not provide one, that is a warning sign. Review the spec carefully, ask questions about anything you do not understand, and make sure the turf product, infill, base depth, and other details match your needs and your budget. Once you have a spec you are comfortable with, you have a clear agreement and a roadmap for a successful installation. For pricing and to arrange an on-site measurement, contact us or visit our service pages for Residential Artificial Grass Installation, Pet Turf & Dog Run Installation, or any of our other specialties.